Processos Antropofágicos e Iconofágicos na Moda: Um Estudo sobre a Indumentária do Movimento Tropicalista

Resumo (EN)

Tropicalismo is an artistic movement based upon modernist experiences, such as Antropofagia, which would affirm to be possible to absorb and recycle in a creative manner the contents of cultural products from abroad. With parodic, allegorical, carnivalesque and imagistic features, Tropicalismo intended to renew the Brazilian arts as a whole from the standpoint of pop culture, both local and international, and other flourishing avant-garde trends like the Concretismo that reflected on poetry and visual and fine arts by that time. Having as a starting point the essay “Manifesto Antropofágico” written by Oswald de Andrade and the concept of Iconofagia by Norval Baitello Jr., this research aimed at looking over the cultural appropriations made by the cultural movement, in particular to what concerns the typical dressing code. The main concern that triggered the investigation was: Were there any processes related to Antropofagia and Iconofagia that influenced the costumes and accessories worn by the Tropicalismo followers, known as the Tropicalistas? It was adopted the hypothesis that that typical manner of consuming and disseminating culture was also present in the way of interpreting trends. The young generation belonging to the counterculture movements that contributed to the dissemination of fashion through the Bubble Up concept, particularly in this research the Tropicalistas, lived a moment of intense questioning and used to study several cultures which channeled into the way they dressed, as well. The methodology chosen is theoretical in nature with a qualitative approach. The present essay has contributions from authors such as Oswald de Andrade (1928), Norval Baitello Junior (2014), Celso Favaretto (1979), Darcy Ribeiro (1995), Kathia Castilho (2001), Carol Garcia (2010), and Maria Claudia Bonadio (2011). Besides the texts by communication and cultural theorists, in order to show evidence of the academic hypothesis it was also consulted documentaries, magazines and scientific articles, as well as archives of newspapers and periodicals published by then. The processes associated with Antropofagia and Iconofagia were observed in the development and spread of the Tropicalista fashion. References to Antropofagia were reportedly made by Regina Boni, while the concept of Iconofagia was spread and marketed by means of the image of artists broadcast on television, in newspapers, magazines and concerts, and in particular in the products of the brand created by Regina Boni, inspired by the trendy clothes the artists used to wear, named “Ao Dromedário Elegante”.