Contabilidade em emergia da cadeia de fornecimento de calças jeans

Resumo (EN)

Brazilian Textile Industry sector has a strategic participation in the country´s economy, employing more than one million workers and using intensive environmental, social, and economic resources, The industry decision makers of this sector that want to implement the Cleaner Production actions depend on identifying the factors with more significance at each textile production step. Emergy accounting measures the environmental work required to generate goods and services. The aim of this Master thesis is applying environmental accounting in Emergy to analyze the Brazilian production system of cotton textile, and determine which production items, have more relevance at each textile production step with industrial sustainable development perspective. This study takes into consideration the diversity of Brazilian cotton production per region and the textile industrial facilities distribution and capacity. The beginning of the textile production chain for the production of jeans is cotton agriculture. The cotton lint from the harvest are cleaned and packed in bales in the cotton gin mill and sent to the spinning mills that transform the cotton bales into coils of yarns to be interlaced and dyed in the weaving mills that produces denim jeans fabric. Which is the main input in the production of clothing (basic denim jeans with five pockets) in the apparel industry and lastly. It has contact with the consumer market through commercial stores selling pants. The analysis of the complete chain shows that the percentage of the stages that most useful resources and energy are the apparel mill with 47.41% and the weaving mill with 16.14%. In the weaving, the contributions of diesel with 8.46% to heat the boilers and to obtain the necessary steam for the dyeing of the fabric of jeans and the electricity with 3.6% to move the entire plant stand out. In the apparel mill sector, as expected, the contribution of the labor force with a participation in the use of financial resources was 28.46%, followed by electricity in 5.8% and diesel with 2.68% in order to heat the boilers and obtain the steam necessary for the finishing of the pants and buildings with 2.65%. This is small the contribution of renewable resources with 2.79% and, non-renewable resources with 0.11%.